Nickel Allergies in the US: Is Palladium White Gold Worth the Premium?

Nickel allergy is the most common metal contact allergy in the U.S. Many people who react to costume jewelry also react to white gold that contains nickel. That makes the choice of metal important when you buy an engagement ring or everyday piece. This article explains how nickel causes reactions, how white gold alloys differ, what rhodium plating does, and whether switching to palladium white gold is worth the extra cost for someone with suspected or confirmed nickel sensitivity.

How nickel causes allergic reactions

Nickel allergy is an immune reaction. It happens when nickel ions are released from metal into the skin. Sweat, friction, and acidic skin increase ion release. The immune system then recognizes those ions as foreign and triggers dermatitis: redness, itching, blisters, or dry patches where the jewelry contacts skin.

In practical terms, that means the same piece can be fine for one person and irritate another. Patch tests show roughly 10–20% positivity in women and lower rates in men. Because release—not absolute nickel content—drives reactions, two rings with the same nickel percentage can behave differently depending on finish and wear.

White gold alloys: nickel versus palladium

White gold is an alloy of gold mixed with other metals to create a white color and increase hardness. The two common routes to make white gold are:

• Nickel-alloyed white gold: Typical 14k white gold is 58.3% gold and 41.7% other metals. If nickel is the main whiteing agent, it will often make up a significant portion of that 41.7%. In practice, nickel content in nickel-white gold alloys commonly ranges from about 5–15% of the total metal, depending on the formula. 18k white gold (75% gold) contains proportionally less alloy and therefore usually less nickel by weight than 14k.
• Palladium-alloyed white gold: Palladium is a platinum-group metal used instead of nickel as the whiteing agent. Palladium alloys are made so they contain little or no nickel. The result is a naturally white alloy that often does not require a bright rhodium finish to look white.

Why this matters: if you are nickel-sensitive, a nickel-alloyed 14k ring can release enough nickel to cause dermatitis. Switching to an alloy that avoids nickel removes the source of ions and greatly reduces the risk of a reaction.

Rhodium plating helps — but it’s not permanent

Many white gold pieces are plated with rhodium. Rhodium is a hard, bright platinum-group metal that covers the underlying alloy. A fresh rhodium plate prevents direct skin contact with nickel and blocks ion release. Typical rhodium thickness on rings is in the range of 0.5–2 microns. Thicker plating lasts longer; thin plating can wear in months on high-contact areas.

Why that matters: rhodium plating is a temporary barrier. Once it wears away, the base alloy is exposed. If the base contains nickel, the risk of dermatitis returns. Re-plating restores the barrier, but that adds maintenance time and cost.

Is palladium white gold worth the premium?

Short answer: often yes for people with confirmed or strongly suspected nickel allergy. Here’s why.

• Lower allergy risk: Palladium alloys are typically nickel-free. That removes the main driver of metal-contact dermatitis for nickel-sensitive wearers.
• Less maintenance: Palladium white gold often has a natural white color and needs rhodium plating less frequently. That reduces long-term maintenance and avoids accidental exposure if plating wears thin.
• Durability and feel: Palladium hardens gold differently than nickel. Palladium white gold can be lighter than nickel-white gold at the same karat and often has stable color over time. This matters for rings worn daily.

Costs: palladium is a rarer, more expensive metal than nickel. Jewelers charge a premium because the alloy is costlier to source and work with. Expect to pay more at purchase. The premium varies by design and market but is commonly noticeable—often a double-digit percent increase compared with nickel-alloyed white gold of the same karat. If you factor in fewer replatings and less risk of dermatitis, the lifetime cost can narrow.

When palladium may not be necessary

Palladium white gold is not always required. Consider alternatives first if:

• You have no history of nickel reaction. A nickel-alloyed 18k white gold ring with a thick rhodium finish may be fine.
• Your jewelry will be worn infrequently or over clothing.
• You prefer lower upfront cost and are willing to replate rhodium every 1–3 years.

Also note: palladium itself can cause rare allergic reactions. Documented palladium sensitivity exists but is much less common than nickel allergy. If you have complex metal sensitivities, ask your dermatologist for patch testing before choosing an alloy.

Practical buying checklist

• Ask for alloy details. Ask the jeweler which whiteing agent is used: nickel or palladium. Ask for the karat (14k/18k) and any nickel-free certification.
• Look for stamps. A stamp like “14k” or “585” confirms gold content. Some manufacturers label pieces “nickel-free.” Don’t assume—ask for written confirmation.
• Consider rhodium plating history. If you choose nickel white gold, agree on expected replating intervals and costs. Ask about plating thickness if they know it.
• Test before long wear. If you suspect sensitivity, wear the ring for a short period (a few days) and check skin. Better yet, get a patch test from a dermatologist for definitive guidance.
• Alternative metals. For severe nickel allergy, consider platinum, titanium, or niobium. These metals are highly biocompatible and often recommended by dermatologists.

Bottom line

If you have a confirmed nickel allergy or frequent unexplained dermatitis under jewelry, paying a premium for palladium white gold is sensible. It reduces the risk of reaction and lowers maintenance compared with rhodium-plated nickel alloys. If you don’t have sensitivity and prefer lower upfront cost, high-karat white gold with careful rhodium maintenance can work well. When in doubt, get a dermatologist’s patch test and buy from a jeweler who will disclose the alloy composition.