Stock Photos vs Your Ring: 4 Tells a Listing Isn’t Real

Buying jewelry online is convenient. But listings can use stock photos or misleading images to sell a different ring. That matters because photos control your expectations of size, metal, and condition. Below are four clear tells that a listing uses generic images or isn’t showing the actual ring. For each tell I explain why it matters and what to ask or check to protect yourself.

Tell 1 — Images look like perfect studio stock shots

Stock photos are often taken under ideal lighting with retouching. They show an impossibly clean surface, sharply defined reflections and a perfectly centered stone. Why that’s suspicious: real pre-owned rings usually show wear — tiny scratches, softened prong tips, or slight misalignment. A stock image hides those real-world signs and may not be the exact item you receive.

How to spot it:

• Look for overly uniform backgrounds and perfect, mirror-like reflections on the metal. Real product photos usually have some texture or small dust specks when shot close-up.
• Stock setups often use consistent props (black velvet, identical ring holders) that appear on many listings. If the same exact photo appears across different sellers, it’s likely stock.
• If every angle looks flawless, ask for unedited photos: close-ups of the inner band, the stone’s crown and pavilion, and a hand or coin for scale. Request a short video that shows the ring rotating in natural light.

Tell 2 — Stone size or proportions don’t match the stated carat/mm

Carat weight and millimeter size are measurable. A round brilliant 1.00 ct diamond is usually about 6.4–6.5 mm across. A 0.5 ct round is around 5.1 mm. If the listing claims 1 ct, but the pictured stone looks much smaller compared to the prongs, the setting, or a nearby band, that’s a red flag. Why this matters: sellers can splice a larger-stone stock photo onto a cheaper setting to inflate perceived value.

Practical checks:

• Ask for a close-up photo with a millimeter ruler or a common object (U.S. penny ~19 mm). Compare proportions—if a claimed 1 ct looks the same size as a 0.3 ct in other photos, question it.
• Inspect how much of the stone the prongs cover. Over-sized prongs hiding a small table or a very thick bezel around a stone often indicate the photo was edited or the stone is smaller than claimed.
• Request the stone’s diameter in mm and the actual measured carat from a jeweler, not just the stated carat on the listing.

Tell 3 — Metal description is vague or hallmarks are missing

A legitimate listing identifies the metal precisely: for example, 14k yellow gold (58.3% Au), 18k rose gold (75% Au), or Platinum 950. Vague labels like “gold,” “white metal,” or “sterling look” are suspicious because the alloy determines durability, color, and value. Why this matters: plated jewelry or gold-filled pieces can look like solid gold in studio photos but wear quickly in real life.

What to ask for:

• Request a macro photo of the inside of the band that clearly shows the hallmark stamp (e.g., “14K,” “750,” “PT950,” “925”). Hallmarks are often tiny so a sharply focused close-up is necessary.
• Ask for the ring’s weight in grams. A solid platinum ring will feel noticeably heavier than an equivalent gold ring. For example, a simple 14k gold engagement ring sized 6 often weighs around 3–5 grams; the same design in platinum usually weighs more due to density.
• If no hallmark is visible, insist the seller disclose whether the piece is plated and ask about plating thickness (microns) and whether it’s repairable.

Tell 4 — Certificate claims are vague or unverifiable

Sellers often say a diamond is “certified” without naming the lab or providing a report number. A legitimate certificate comes from a recognized lab (with a report number you can verify) and includes measurements, proportions, and a plotted diagram. Why this matters: fake or misattributed certificates are common. A photo of a random lab report pasted into a listing doesn’t prove the ring matches that report.

How to verify:

• Ask for the lab name and the full report number. The lab and number let you cross-check the report details (cut, color, clarity, mm) against the stone in photos.
• Request a photo showing the girdle inscription if the lab reports a laser inscription. That inscription should match the report number.
• Be skeptical of screenshots of reports or low-resolution copies. Ask for the original PDF or a clear scan that includes the lab’s logo, report number, and plotted diagram.

How to confirm a listing before you buy

Don’t rely on the listing alone. Use these practical steps to confirm the ring is genuine and accurately represented.

• Request multiple, unedited photos: inner band hallmark, stone from crown and pavilion angles, side view showing prongs, and a photo with a ruler or coin for scale. Ask for a video in natural light to see how the stone behaves when moved.
• Ask for documentation: clear lab report with number, original purchase receipt, or appraisal. Request the lab name and ask the seller to confirm the report number is etched on the girdle if noted.
• Purchase backed by a return policy. If the seller refuses returns or independent inspections, treat that as a warning sign.
• If in doubt, arrange a local independent appraisal. A professional can verify metal, stone measurements, and whether the item matches any provided report.

Stock photos are common, but they shouldn’t replace proof that the specific ring you’ll get is authentic. Ask for concrete evidence — millimeters, hallmarks, report numbers, and real-life photos or video. That evidence explains the listing’s claims and protects your money.